Traveling to Korea

I defended my dissertation on May 12th, 2025. After 6 years of cramming for midterms, studying for my comprehensive exam, pulling all-nighters, catching paper deadlines, and other things too numerous to list here, I can finally say it's over. Along the way, I worked summer internships and research positions. I worked for the family cooler business. I even pursued professional swimming, using the 2024 long course season and the TYR Pro Series as a springboard to qualify for the 2024 Olympic Trials — I did not make it, but it was an invaluable experience.

I wanted to take a breather. After six years of hustling, I was a bit burnt-out. My wife and I were planning to have our first kid soon, and I wanted to do some travel before we settled down.

After some thought, I booked my flight to Seoul on June 2nd. I always wanted to take a deep dive into Korean history and enjoy authentic Korean food beyond what you find at HMart. During my visit, I visited to the National Museum of Korea, War Memorial of Korea, Gyeongbokgung Palace, and Seoul's most popular neighborhoods: Hongdae, Itaewon, Myeongdong, Gangnam. I will provide some of my thoughts on each.

National Museum of Korea

I would say this is an absolute must-see. If you had only one day in Seoul, my recommendation is to dedicate at least half a day here. This museum offers artifacts from every time period: prehistory, medieval times, dynastic (Joseon) Korea, and modern history. There are also calligraphy and painting exhibits on a separate floor to complement the main exhibits.

The floor plans are intuitive and well-planned. A natural walk through the museum will take you through Korea's history in chronological order. Exhibits have English commentary and explanations.

What stood out to me is that this museum conveys a great sense of cultural pride, but also gives serious and thoughtful reflection to some of Korea's darker times (e.g. the Japanese occupation between 1910-1945). I was standing at the end of the museum in awe of the resilience of the Koreans: how they endured colonization, war, and division, yet still rose to become a powerful nation with significant influence in today’s global economy and popular culture.

Entry is free: take a cab or ride the subway to Ichon (National Museum of Korea). Whether you are a history buff or a traveler, this place is for everyone.

War Memorial of Korea

The War Memorial of Korea also has free admission (closed on Mondays), and a must-see. The exhibits on the Korean War and the Imjin War are vast and well-documented. The museum also shows Korea’s involvement in major international conflicts, including contributions to the Gulf War and the mission in Afghanistan.

There’s one exhibit that was quite memorable in this museum—and it is hidden gem in Korean history. It's a goofy, children's animation of Admiral Yi Sun-sin's legendary victory at the Battle of Hansan Island in 1592, where he used his brilliance to force Wakizaka's Japanese fleet to retreat. The museum also features the famous turtle ship that was used by Yi Sun-Sin. Apparently, this guy had a perfect track record and did not lose a single battle in the Imjin War (1592-1598).

While Western history books usually frame the likes of Horatio Nelson and Chester Nimitz as naval masterminds, after learning about Yi Sun-sin, I would argue he belongs in the same league. Incredible.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gyeongbokgung Palace was built in 1395 and served as the main royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. This is the largest and most important of the palaces in Seoul.

The palace was severely damaged during the Imjin War (1592-1598). Most of the original buildings were destroyed or neglected during the Japanese occupation period in the first half of the 20th century. Many buildings were demolished, and the palace grounds were repurposed.

Today, there have been significant restoration efforts to bring Gyeongbokgung to its former glory. Much of the palace complex has been carefully rebuilt, with the royal residences, gardens, water features, and other elements of the Joseon Dynasty brought back to life.

Seoul's neighborhoods

Hongdae is close to Hongik University and is where all of the young people hang out. There are lots of street performances and avant-garde cafes and shops here.

Itaewon is the international district, where a lot of foreigners and expats end up. You will find a lot of Western and Middle Eastern restaurants and eateries as well as hip bars and shops.

The most iconic part of Myeongdong is the endless street food vendors selling Tteokbokki, tornado potatoes, fried chicken, egg bread, korean bbq, japchae, gimbap, you name it. It's crowded in the afternoon, and even more so in the evening, but it is worth it for sure. I visited this neighborhood twice.

Lastly, Gangnam represents modern, upscale Seoul, which is where I stayed. There are many luxury shopping outlets and high-end restaurants, and many plastic surgery clinics. If you're hunting for some bibimbap around Gangnam-daero, you will see people wearing compression garments, bandages, and face masks after their surgeries. A bit like Beverly Hills.